Ferment in an airtight tank fitted with a water trap that will let theCO² escape but will prevent air from reaching the mash.
(Fermentation is the cehmical reaction in which the yeast consumes the sugar contained in the mash producing Ethanol and CO²)
When the water trap stops bubbling, fermentation has stopped.
Fermentation will take from 2 to 3 days with brewer’s yeast.
This may be shortened to 1 day with the use of Turbo Yeast.
The proof of the beer will be from 10% to 15% ( up to 18% in some cases)
What You Need:
How you do it:
1) Start out by preparing water:
Add 10 tsp. Gypsum or calcium carbonate to the water and stir well
Adjust pH of water to between 6 and 7 with a few drops of acid at a time.
Heat water to 165 degrees, stirring often and check water carefully.
2) When water has reached 165 degrees turn off the heat and add the corn stirring well
This mixture must be below 160 degrees before adding any malt.
Stir in 1 ½ pounds of the malted corn, cover for 20 to 30 minutes but stir every few minutes.
Your mash should now be liquid enough to stir easly.
3) Turn heat back on high and stir often while heating to avoid scorching, heat to boiling then turn off heat and continue to stir for a few minutes.
4) Cool mash to 150 degrees with mash cooler. Stir often and watch temperature closely.
Stir in remainder of malted corn and cover for at least 90 minutes.
5) At this point you can cool your mash with the mash cooling coil to 100 degrees or less and collect a few drops of the clear liquid onto a white plate or tile.
6) Place a drop if tincture of iodine on clear liquid to look for starch. If there are starches that are not yet converted the iodine will turn black right away. If there are any solid particles in your test liquid they will turn black so you can disregard the specks and just look at the clear liquid. Do not put the test back into the mash, throw it away!!
7) Add 1/3 cup brewers yeast only after tests and temperature has dropped below 100 degrees, Cover top with screen to keep the bugs out but you do not need to use a fermenting lock, in fact some yeast will not work if you use a fermenting lock.
8) Stir twice a day for 3 days, when bubbling has stopped the liquid beer is ready to let settle and be pumped into the boiler for distilling.
9) The grain can be drained and dried to become “distillers dried grain” which can be fed to the animals
10) The final drained beer is heavy with good yeast, it should be diluted to prevent it from killing the yeast and can be used to start the next batch fermenting.
SOURCE: Donald Franson
What You Need: How you do it:
What You Need:
How you do it:
1. If you are starting with whole corn, you first need to convert the cornstarch into sugar by 'sprouting' the corn. Place the corn in a container, cover it with warm water, and drape a cloth over the container to prevent contamination and conserve heat. Ideally, the container will have a slowly draining hole at the bottom. Add warm water from time to time as the liquid level falls. Maintain the setup ~3 days or until the corn has sprouts about 2 inches long.
2. Allow the sprouted corn to dry. Then grind it into meal. Alternatively, start with cornmeal. Other grains can be prepared in much the same way (e.g. rye mash).
3. Mash or mush is made by adding boiling water to the corn meal. The mash is kept warm to start the fermentation process. Yeast is added, if available (half pound yeast per 50 gallons of mash, for example), and sugar (variable recipe). With yeast, fermentation takes about 3 days. Without yeast, fermentation could require more than 10 days. The mash is ready to 'run' once it stops bubbling. The mash has been converted into carbonic acid and alcohol. It is called 'wash' or 'beer' or 'sour mash'.
4. The wash is placed into a cooker, which has a lid that is pasted shut, so that it has a seal which can be blown off should internal pressure become too great. At the top of the cooker, there is a copper pipe, or 'arm' that projects to one side and tapers down from a 4-5 inch diameter to the same diameter as the 'worm' (1 to 1-1/4 inch). The 'worm' could be made by taking a 20 ft length of copper tubing, filling it with sand and stopping the ends, and then coiling it around a fence post.
5. The sand prevents the tubing from kinking while being coiled. Once the worm is formed, the sand is flushed out of the tube. The worm is placed in a barrel and sealed to the end of the arm. The barrel is kept full of cold, running water, to condense the alcohol. Water runs in the top of the barrel and out an opening at the bottom. A fire is maintained under the cooker to vaporize the alcohol in the wash.
6. The ethanol vaporizes at 173°F, which is the target temperature for the mixture. The spirit will rise to the top of the cooker, enter the arm, and will be cooled to the condensation point in the worm. The resulting liquid is collected at the end of the worm, traditionally into glass jars. This fluid will be translucent, and about the color of dark beer.
7. The very first liquid contains volatile oil contaminants in addition to alcohol. After that, liquid is collected. The containers of liquid collected from over the wash are called 'singlings'. Liquid collected toward the end of this run is called 'low wine'. Low wine can be collected and returned to the still to be cooked again. The initial collections are higher proof than those collected as the distillation progresses.
8. The singlings tend to have impurities and require double-distillation, so once the low wine has been run to the point where a tablespoon or so thrown on a flame won't burn (too low proof), the heat is removed from the still and the cooker is cleaned out. The liquid remaining in the still, the 'backings' or 'slop', can be recovered and poured over new grain (and sugar, water, and possibly malt) in a mash barrel for future distillations. Discard mash after no more than eight uses.
9. The singlings are poured into the cooker and the still is returned to operation. The initial collections can approach pure alcohol (200 proof), with the end collections, using the flash test on the flame, at about 10 proof.
10. The desired proof depends on the application. The highest proof usually obtained from a still is 190 proof. For using alcohol as a fuel alternative, for example, addition purification with a sieve may be required to obtain 200 proof ethanol.